2016年10月3日 – 抱擁 – hōyō – Umarmung

Gegen Nachmittag verlasse ich die Wohnung, habe kein Ziel, möchte mir während des Spaziergangs zum U-Bahnhof überlegen, wohin ich fahre. Bereits nach wenigen Schritten kehre ich um, öffne das Schloss meines Fahrrads, das ich im Erdgeschoss geparkt habe, und mache mich auf den Weg. Als ich die Brücke überquere, weiß ich, wohin es mich zieht: zum Skytree. Nicht, weil ich hinauf will, sondern weil ich mir seine sonderbare Struktur von Nahem ansehen möchte.

 

 

Ich fahre am Ufer des Sumida entlang, wo ich ganz am Ende bereits den Turm sehe, doch ich komme nicht weit, der Weg hört irgendwann einfach auf. So setze ich mich erst einmal auf eine Bank, esse ein Sandwich, trinke Zitronenlimonade und blicke hinüber auf die Häuser, die den Fluss auf der anderen Seite säumen. Keine Fassade gleicht der anderen. Wie teuer der Baugrund sein muss, erkenne ich daran, dass die Gebäude meist schmal, aber hoch sind. Oft ist auf jeder Etage gerade einmal eine kleine Wohnung. Ich denke an die vier Türen, hinter denen sich auf jedem Geschoss vergleichsweise große Wohnungen befinden, dort, wo ich in Berlin lebe. Selbstverständlich komme ich auch mit den elf Quadratmetern meines jetzigen Apartments zurecht, aber es fehlt mir oft, dass ich meinem Bett nicht aus dem Weg gehen kann, Schlafen und Wachsein nicht räumlich voneinander getrennt sind, und ich manchmal das Gefühl habe, den Kopf einziehen zu müssen, weil die Decke so niedrig ist. Zuhause kann ich sie nicht einmal anfassen, wenn ich auf einer Leiter stehe, hier muss ich nur meinen Arm ganz nach oben präzise ausstrecken, mich nicht einmal auf die Zehen stellen, und die Spitze meines Mittelfingers berührt die Decke. Dennoch bezahle ich in Tokio erheblich mehr Miete.

Um zum Skytree zu gelangen, radle ich nun vorbei an Wohnblöcken, Supermärkten, Drogerien, winzigen Restaurants, Fast-Food-Ketten, Barber Shops, vor denen die typischen rot-blau-weißen Aufsteller rotieren, Konbinis. Da ich die meiste Zeit nicht auf der Straße fahren kann und den Gehweg nehme, komme ich nur langsam voran. Ich versuche, nicht daran denken, dass ich die ganze Strecke auch wieder zurück fahren muss, später, wenn es bereits dunkel ist. Mittlerweile habe ich den Skytree längst aus den Augen verloren, es sind viel zu viele Häuser im Weg. Ich fahre dennoch nur nach Gefühl, weil ich heute nichts planen möchte, weil es wichtiger ist zu fahren, unterwegs zu sein, mich und den Gegenwind zu spüren und die Augen offen zu halten.

Mein Rad scheppert über die schlechten Gehwege hinweg, über Fragmente jener gelben Markierungen für Menschen, die nicht sehen können. Ich atme die ganze Zeit aufmerksam, nehme den Geruch frittierter und gedünsteter Gerichte wahr, der aus den Konbinis strömt, den Duft von Waschpulver, wenn ich Drogerien passiere, das Rosenparfum einiger Damen, jene sonderbare Melange aus Fett-, Fisch- und Saucengeruch eines Takoyaki-Standes, den Gestank fischigen Wassers, wenn ich eine der vielen Brücken passiere, unter denen irgendein Arm des Sumida fließt.

Dann ist der Skytree auf einmal ganz nah. Ich merke nun, was ich an dem Turm so sonderbar finde: seine Hülle ist gemacht aus durchlässigen Stahlträgern, die jedoch eine kompakte Form simulieren. Er ist Teil eines Einkaufszentrums, in dessen Kellergschoss ich mein Fahrrad parken kann. Mit der Rolltreppe gelange ich in die zweite Etage, wo sich hauptsächlich Feinkoststände aneinander reihen. In den letzten fünf Monaten habe ich vermutlich so viele von ihnen gesehen wie die gesamte Zeit meines Lebens zuvor. Ich fühle mich an diesen Orten fremd wie im KaDeWe, wo ich ebenfalls nicht hingehöre mit meinen ausgelatschten Schuhen und den Kleidern vom Schlussverkauf. Ich lausche den Fischhändlern, die ihre teure Ware anpreisen, bewundere ein paar Pralinendamen in ihren farbenfrohen Uniformen, die sie aussehen lassen wie Stewardessen im Auftrag von Willy Wonka, und ignoriere trotz knurrendem Magen sämtliche Köstlichkeiten.

Obwohl ich ganz sicher nicht auf den Skytree hinauf möchte, folge ich fast zwanghaft dem Schild, das mich zur Kasse führt. Als ich eine Rolltreppe hinab fahre, erfahre ich den Grund: vor mir liegt das Mumin-Café, das ich völlig vergessen hatte, aber irgendwann eimal besuchen wollte. Ich denke an Artikel mit Fotos von Menschen, die alleine an einem der Cafétische sitzen, ihnen gegenüber hockt lediglich ein riesiger Mumin aus Plüsch. Ich mochte die Bilder, doch gleichzeitig machten sie mich auch traurig: Einsamkeit und Verzweiflung steckten in ihnen.

Im Café ist noch genau ein Tisch frei. Ich muss mich mit der Bestellung jedoch gedulden, da zuerst ein Event stattfindet, bei dem ein Mumin-Maskottchen das Restaurant betritt und vor allem die anwesenden Kinder erfreut. Ich bin die Einzige, an deren Tisch kein Plüsch-Mumin sitzt – dabei bin ich die einzige Person, die ganz alleine gekommen ist. Bevor das Maskottchen wieder geht, werde ich dazu aufgefordert, mich gemeinsam mit ihm fotografieren zu lassen. Ich finde das ein wenig albern, doch ich will nicht unhöflich sein und so gehe ich auf den Mumin zu, sage こんにちは · konnichiwa und habe keine Ahnung, wie der Mensch unter dem Kostüm überhaupt etwas sehen kann, denn es ist nirgendwo eine Öffnung. Wir posieren, währen die Bedienung mit meinem Telefon ein paar Fotos macht. Dann nimmt der Mumin mich in den Arm und ich bin erschreckend gerührt, merke, wie meine Augen auf einmal leuchten – Umarmungen sind eine Rarität für mich geworden. Zum Abschied drückt das Maskottchen ganz fest meine Hände und beschämt gehe ich zurück an meinem Platz. Wenige Minuten später setzt die Bedienung einen Mumin zu mir an den Tisch. かわいい · kawaii · niedlich sage ich lächelnd, und werde zu einer dieser Fotografien aus dem Internet.

 
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